Dassai Sake Brewery: A New Generation of Sake Brewing

Discovering Dassai in Yamaguchi

During our recent trip to Yamaguchi Prefecture, my wife, Hikari, and I had the opportunity to visit the famous Dassai Brewery. As sake enthusiasts, we had long admired Dassai’s commitment to innovation and craftsmanship, so experiencing the brewery firsthand was an exciting prospect. Nestled in the tranquil countryside, the brewery is a place where tradition and modernity seamlessly coexist. From the moment we arrived, we could sense that this was more than just a sake brewery—it was the heart of a brand that had redefined premium sake. Our visit was not just a tour; it was an in-depth exploration of the artistry behind one of Japan’s most celebrated sake brands.

A Visionary Approach to Sake Brewing

Dassai is produced by Asahi Shuzo, a brewery that has gained worldwide recognition for its relentless pursuit of quality and its commitment to innovation. Unlike many traditional breweries that prioritize historical brewing methods and regional exclusivity, Dassai embraces modern technology while upholding the highest standards of craftsmanship. They focus solely on junmai daiginjo sake—the highest grade of sake made from rice that has been polished to at least 50% of its original size, eliminating impurities and maximizing delicate flavors.

One of the most remarkable aspects of Dassai’s production is that, unlike most sake breweries that operate seasonally, Dassai brews all year round. This allows for continuous refinement of their techniques and ensures a steady supply of their renowned sake. Additionally, Dassai plays a major role in supporting Japan’s rice farming industry. They purchase rice from farmers across Japan, sourcing 20% of the nation’s total Yamada Nishiki rice yield. By guaranteeing purchases from their selected farmers, Dassai provides stability to the agricultural community and maintains a consistent quality in their sake production.

Experiencing the Dassai Brewing Process Firsthand

Our tour began with a detailed explanation from Dassai staff about the sake production process. After learning about the philosophy and techniques behind their craft, we suited up in hygienic gear—coveralls, shoes, and hats—before stepping into the production rooms.

The first stage we witnessed was the soaking of the rice, a crucial step that determines how much water the grains absorb before steaming. We then observed the rice after it had been drained, followed by the steaming process, where the heat helps break down the rice’s starches, making them accessible for fermentation.

Entering the fermentation rooms was an unforgettable moment. The air was thick with the aroma of fermenting rice, a rich and slightly sweet scent that enveloped us as soon as we stepped inside. Massive vats bubbled as natural fermentation took place, transforming the rice into a fermented mash called 'moromi' which is then filtered with a giant pressing machine. The staff explained that Dassai ferments its sake at lower temperatures over an extended period, allowing for more refined and delicate flavours to develop.

Next, we observed the large machines used for pressing the sake, a critical step in extracting the liquid while leaving the rice solids behind. Finally, we arrived at the tasting rooms, where every batch of sake undergoes rigorous quality control. Graphs lined the walls, displaying printout data that tracked every aspect of the brewing process. Each sake is carefully evaluated for its flavor profile, aroma, and overall quality, ensuring that every bottle of Dassai maintains its signature excellence.

Unlike traditional breweries that rely on a master brewer to oversee the entire production, Dassai has developed a system that uses precise technology to maintain consistency. Normally, the distinct flavor of a sake can fluctuate due to seasonal changes, human error, and variations in the rice harvest. However, Dassai’s data-driven approach allows them to create sake with nearly identical flavor profiles in every bottle, ensuring a remarkable level of consistency that is rare in the world of sake.

The Kengo Kuma-Designed Dassai Bridge

As we exited the main brewery, we stepped onto a strikingly modern bridge designed by world-renowned architect Kengo Kuma. The sleek wooden structure, with its intricate lattice design, symbolized the fusion of past and future—a philosophy that perfectly encapsulates Dassai’s approach to sake-making. The beautiful architecture of the bridge and the flowing river beneath created a nice spot to pause and reflect on how Dassai has reshaped the sake industry, making premium sake more accessible and appreciated worldwide.

Exploring the Dassai Store: A Sake Lover’s Paradise

Our journey concluded at the Dassai Store, a beautifully curated space offering an impressive range of their sake. The store’s knowledgeable staff guided us through the different expressions of Dassai, from the crisp and floral Dassai 39 to the ultra-refined Dassai 23. As we browsed the selection, one bottle caught our attention—登竜門 (Tōryūmon), a limited-edition sake crafted by young brewers who take full responsibility for every step of the process, from rice polishing to fermentation and bottling. This hands-on approach gives them a holistic understanding of sake-making, resulting in a spirit that embodies both passion and craftsmanship. Knowing the dedication behind this particular bottle, we couldn’t resist taking one home.

The Flavor of Dassai: A Symphony of Elegance

Back home, we opened our bottle of 登竜門, eager to experience its unique character. As we poured the sake into chilled glasses, the first thing we noticed was its pristine clarity. The aroma was delicate yet complex, with notes of white flowers, ripe melon, and a hint of honeydew. On the palate, it was incredibly smooth, with a refined sweetness balanced by a crisp acidity. The finish was long and lingering, leaving behind a subtle umami depth that made us appreciate every sip.

What sets Dassai apart is its ability to appeal to both sake connoisseurs and newcomers alike. Unlike some traditional sakes that can be bold and full-bodied, Dassai’s profile is clean, elegant, and versatile, making it an excellent pairing for a wide range of cuisines. Whether enjoyed with sushi, tempura, or even Western dishes, its balance and finesse make it a truly exceptional sake.

An Unforgettable Journey into the World of Dassai

Our visit to Dassai Brewery was more than just a tour—it was an immersive journey into the artistry, innovation, and philosophy that define one of Japan’s most celebrated sake brands. From the meticulous brewing process to the precision-driven fermentation techniques, every element of Dassai’s production reflects a commitment to excellence. Walking across the Kengo Kuma-designed bridge, exploring the store’s vast selection, and finally tasting the exquisite craftsmanship in our own home, we left with a newfound appreciation for the world of sake.

For anyone with a passion for fine craftsmanship, or simply an appreciation for sake, a visit to Dassai Brewery is an unforgettable experience—one that deepens your understanding of what makes Japanese sake truly special.